3D Printing Guide
How To 3D Print Brass

Scott Gabdullin
Updated on February 13, 2025

Updated on February 13, 2025
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It’s amazing how 3D printing has revolutionized the way metal parts are manufactured. Now, we can bring intricate jewelry, custom mechanical parts, and artistic sculptures to life with a 3D printer. But as we all know, metal printing comes with its own set of challenges. In particular, brass can be challenging to work with.
As a material that requires precise handling, specialized equipment, and a strong grasp of sintering and post-processing techniques, it’s one of the trickiest things to create. In fact, is even true brass 3D printing really possible?
The short answer is yes, but it’s not as simple as loading a spool of filament and hitting print as we do with PLA and ABS. Brass requires a different approach, and if you’ve been in the 3D printing space for a while, you know that working with metals is totally different.
Instead of using traditional fused deposition modeling (FDM), where melted material is layered up, we need more advanced methods like metal binder jetting or direct metal laser sintering (DMLS).
If you’re looking for a way to 3D print brass without melting it directly, this is the method to consider. It works by laying down ultra-fine layers of brass powder and binding them together with a special adhesive, almost like glue holding grains of sand.
But here’s the catch. With this method, the printed object is fragile, almost like chalk. That’s where the furnace comes in. Once the print is complete, we heat it to an extremely high temperature, allowing the brass particles to fuse together into a solid, durable piece. The process isn’t instant, and it requires careful handling, but it’s a great way to create complex shapes without dealing with the challenges of direct metal melting.
This method is a more precise and detailed process compared to binder jetting. It works by using a fine brass powder, which is carefully fused layer by layer with a laser, creating high-resolution parts with minimal waste. The real advantage here is the control we get over the final structure focusing on strength in even the most delicate designs. This is ideal for creating parts with high-quality finishes.
However, like any metal 3D printing method, it requires fine-tuned calibration and post-processing, so we need to be prepared to put in the extra effort to get it right.
This process takes metal 3D printing to a whole new level. A high-powered laser scans across a bed of fine brass powder, sintering the particles into a solid form. The precision here is incredible, where every pass of the laser ensures the structure is fused together with minimal waste, giving us parts that are not only strong but also highly detailed. This is a go-to-method when you need intricate designs and tight tolerances.
However, as exciting as it is, it’s not something we can just set up in our home workshops. DMLS requires controlled environments, specialized hardware, and extensive post-processing to refine the final piece.
When 3D printing brass, you need the right tools and materials to get it done properly. Those of us who’ve worked with metal printing know that it’s not just about having a printer, but it’s about having the right setup.
This will be your base material, and not all powders are created equal. If you’re using binder jetting or DMLS, make sure you’re sourcing high-quality brass powder with the right particle size and consistency for your specific printer. Cutting corners here will only lead to poor print quality.
To 3D print metal, your standard desktop FDM printer won’t cut it, especially for brass. We need serious hardware designed for metal powders, and that means machines capable of binder jetting or laser sintering.
For industrial-grade reliability, the EOS M 290 is a solid choice. It’s widely used for metal sintering and delivers exceptional precision. If you’ve ever struggled with maintaining print consistency in metal parts, this printer’s robust process controls help mitigate those headaches. It’s not cheap, but if precision and production reliability are your priorities, it’s well worth the investment.
If you’re looking for something more accessible but still powerful, the Desktop Metal Studio System is a great entry point. It’s designed with an office-friendly setup in mind, making it easier for those without full industrial shop space to produce high-quality metal parts.
For those considering binder jetting, the ExOne Innovent+ is a trusted option. This one stands out if you’re looking to batch-produce multiple parts efficiently. It offers excellent control over brass powder printing, making it a great choice when precision and scalability matter.
Printing is just the first step. If you’re using binder jetting, you’ll need a sintering surface to solidify your printed brass object. If you’re working with DMLS, you may need additional heat treatments and finishing techniques to remove surface imperfections and achieve the best mechanical properties.
Finally, never forget your gear! It’s important for every 3D printing project, but most especially when handling fine metal powders. A good pair of gloves, a respirator, and proper ventilation are non-negotiable. You don’t want to inhale brass dust or deal with contamination issues!
While 3D printing brass takes patience, the right equipment, and a solid understanding of post-processing, the results will speak for themselves. We now have the ability to create highly detailed, durable brass parts that simply wouldn’t be possible with traditional manufacturing methods.
Here’s how you can do that too.
The first step is getting the 3D model right, and trust us, this is where a lot of us get tripped up. Brass printing isn’t as forgiving as plastics. There’s no just “winging it” with a rough design and hoping it works. We need to think like metalworkers and engineers, designing with the properties of brass in mind. That means ensuring structural integrity, avoiding unnecessary material waste, and planning for the inevitable shrinkage that happens during sintering or cooling.
We’ve learned the hard way that small mistakes in the design phase can lead to costly failures in printing. Using software like Autodesk Fusion 360 or SolidWorks can help optimize the model for metal printing by allowing us to add necessary supports, tweak dimensions for better strength, and run simulations to catch potential problem areas before we waste material.
If you’ve ever printed something that looked great on screen but failed in real life, you know how valuable that extra preparation can be.
Now it’s time to get our material ready. This step is just as critical as designing the model. If we’re using DMLS or SLM, we need to make sure the brass powder is not just any powder. It must be of the right grain size and purity to ensure a consistent print. Once loaded into the printer’s powder bed, the laser calibration has to be precise; even a minor miscalibration can lead to weak spots or incomplete sintering.
From experience, double-checking the machine settings before hitting print can save hours of frustration later.
If you’re using binder jetting, the process is slightly different but just as meticulous. The printer spreads ultra-thin layers of brass powder while applying a binding agent to form the initial shape. At this stage, the object is extremely fragile, almost like a sandcastle, before the tide comes in. In our experience, we have often seen parts crumble due to rushed handling processes. Taking our time here ensures that the final print has the strength and detail we need. Precision in loading and handling is what makes the difference between a flawless print and a failed attempt.
If you’ve ever watched a metal print come to life, you know how satisfying it is to see the layers build up into something tangible. But it’s also a moment of high precision, where one small misstep here can send us back to square one.
If you’re using DMLS/SLM Printing, the machine’s laser does its job by selectively melting the brass powder layer by layer, fusing it into a solid part. It’s mesmerizing to watch, but we need to monitor the process closely. Uneven powder distribution or miscalibrated laser settings can lead to defects, and trust me, there’s nothing worse than seeing an expensive print fail halfway through. Double-checking parameters before starting the job can save a lot of frustration.
For the binder jetting method, instead of melting the brass powder, the printer deposits a binding agent layer by layer to create what’s called a “green” part. At this stage, the object is so fragile that even a slight bump can ruin it. We’ve learned that patience is key here. Handling the green part with extreme care ensures that it survives long enough to reach the sintering stage, where it finally takes on the strength of solid brass.
After the printing, the post-processing stage is just as important as the printing itself. This is where we take our raw print and refine it into a functional, polished piece.
If we used binder jetting, our object wouldn’t be solid metal yet. It’s still held together by a binding agent. To transform it into a strong brass piece, we need to place it in a high-temperature furnace to burn away the binder and fully fuse the brass particles.
This step is where things can go wrong fast. Warping or cracking can ruin the print if we rush the heating process or the temperature isn’t evenly distributed. A gradual and controlled increase in temperature gives the particles time to bond properly without distortion.
For DMLS printing, the printed part is already fused during the build process, but post-processing is still necessary. Right after printing, the part will often have excess powder fused to its surface. This needs to be carefully removed using compressed air or ultrasonic cleaning. Additionally, stress relief heat treatment is often required. The high-powered laser used in DMLS creates internal stresses in the metal, which can lead to cracking if left untreated. A slow, controlled heat treatment helps relieve these stresses and ensures a more stable final piece. Depending on the part’s function, additional hot isostatic pressing (HIP) might be needed to remove porosity and improve mechanical strength.
3D-printed metal parts seldom come out perfectly from the printer. They often have rough surfaces, powder residue, or support structures that need removal. This is where polishing and finishing come into play. The first step is sanding. Start with a coarse grit and work your way down to finer grades to smooth out imperfections. If the part has detailed features, use small files or even a Dremel to reach tight spots without damaging the design.
Once the surface is smoothed out, polishing is where we can really bring out the shine. For example, a buffing wheel with the right compound can transform a dull, grainy print into a mirror-like finish. If you’re working on functional parts rather than decorative ones, consider a matte finish to reduce glare and improve handling.
Finally, depending on the application, a protective coating might be a smart choice. A clear lacquer or even electroplating can prevent oxidation and give the part an extra layer of durability. In some cases, machining might be necessary for precise tolerances, especially if the part needs to fit into an assembly
One of the biggest advantages of 3D printed brass is the possibility of producing custom jewelry and decorative pieces. Instead of relying on traditional casting, we can print intricate, one-of-a-kind products and designs with incredible precision. The level of detail achievable with DMLS and binder jetting means we can craft complex patterns, filigree, and even interlocking components that would be difficult, if not impossible, to achieve otherwise.
Another exciting use case is functional mechanical components. Brass is known for its corrosion resistance and excellent machinability, making it ideal for applications like gears, fittings, and electronic connectors. 3D printing allows us to prototype and manufacture these parts with a high degree of customization, whether for aerospace, automotive, or industrial applications.
Printing 3D brass is not a simple plug-and-play process, but if you’re willing to invest the time and effort, you’ll be able to create parts that are as strong as they are beautiful.
For tips and tricks on taking 3D printing to the next level, check out 3DGearZone for in-depth guides, expert recommendations, or hands-on tips. Who knows what we’ll be able to print next?
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